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I if^iTki-ki^k the Second 
iil \/JJC/ Trail 



"A l^ollin^stone'* 



(CMAKLES NEWTON MOOD) 

AuHioi* i>f "liiir<ipe. on $•(-. A Pay. 




A T.ITTT.E DEVERSTON ON. THE STEAMETt. 

P K I C E 5 C E iS T S 

Published by 
THE ROLLING STONE CLUB OF AMERIC^A, 

80 BelLBuildinKi 
MEDINA, N. Y., U. S. A. 



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Glass T) 3 e^V 

Book J±21 

Copyright W. 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive 
in 2011 witii funding from 
Tine Library of Congress 



littp://www.arcliive.org/details/europetliesecondtOOIiood 




^^'" 7 



GENOA — Mrs. Rolling-stone at the Monument to Columbus. 



Europe==the Second Trckil 

Being an accoioit of a strond Expcrimeyital Trip to Ejirope, 

of 80 days duration, tal<:en by tlie President of 

the CInh and his wife, for the purpose of out- 

. lining the Best Second Trip to Europe, to 

cost not over $325 or $-i. per day. 



THE ROLLING STONE CLUB OF AMERICA, 

BELL BUILDING, 

MEDINA, N. Y., U.S. A. 



PRLCE 50 CENTS 

Copyrighted 1910 by Charles Newton Hood 



/^ 



^^■ 



A CKNO JVLED GEMENTS 

The Club tenders its grateful acknowledgements to Oel- 
richs & Co., General Agents of the North German Lloyd 
Steamship Company and for tlie loan of half tone illustra- 
tions and the Editor and publishers of The Recorder, Bos- 
ton, for the reproductions of kodak snap shots made by the 
writer on this trip, and first used to illustrate technical trav- 
el letters which appeared in The Recorder. 



/^-^YYf^o 



(0)G!.A259688 



WHEREFORE? 

This little book outlines the second experimental trip 
made by the authors to and through Europe. 

jNIany of the large number of people who followed the 

iirst trail, outlined in "Europe on $i a Day." with success, 

stating that it saved them a large amount of "work in the 

"dark," in their travel planning, have asked to have the best 

second tour outlined and published. 

Xow^ it has always seemed to us, that, in writing about 
economic travel, a truthful account of what has been done in 
an actual trip, is better, and more dependable than a much 
more graphic, theoretical account of what might be done. 
Acting on this belief the following trip was taken, just as 
it is set down^ after nearly a year of careful planning. 

We are more than ever convinced that we made no mis- 
take in the statement that the route followed in "Europe on 
.$4 a Day/' is the "best first trip to Europe and still the 
best if it is to be the one trip of a lifetime." 

We believe this to be the best second trip, but is offered 
to three classes of travelers — Those who have followed the 
first trail and are ready for a second one, and are glad to 
have a new route mapped out and planned ; for those who 
do not quite agree with us as to all of the former route, or 
who wish to do more of Europe in one trip and can use a 
combination of the two, and for those who wish to cover a 
great number of points in a short space of time. 

The statement made in the former book, that not a line of 
paid advertising is permitted, applies equally to this pub- 
lication. Any recommendations, of any sort, are entirely 
gratuitous and where not from personal experience have fol- 
lowed careful investigation. 

"A. Rollinffstone." 




S. S. NECKAR. 
(Courtesy N. G. L. S. S. Co.) 



PLANNING THE ROUTE 

As originally outlined this trip was to begin at Genoa in- 
stead of Naples and to end at Antwerp^ Rotterdam, Ham- 
burg or Bremen. The idea being not to duplicate a single 
' point covered on the first trail. For two reasons we did not 
do this. First — There is so much to see in Itah^ that it 
would require months to do it even "tourist" justice, and 
the call of the covnitry is too strong to be resisted, and, 
Second — The sailing that we wanted went to Naples. 

Therefore, the final outline was as follows: New York, 
Gibraltar, Genoa, Naples, Salerno, Amalfi, Sorrento, Na- 
ples, Rome, Orvieto, Siene, Pisa, Florence, Bolgona, Ver- 
ona, Lake of Garda, Riva, Trient, Innsbruck, Munich, 
Nurem berg, Heidelberg, Frankfort, Wiesbaden, Biebrick, 
Rhine to Cologne, Brussels, Antwerp, Rotterdam, The 
Hague, Scheveningen, Amsterdam. London, Cambridge, 
Ely, Lincoln, Liverpool, Montreal. 

It will be noticed that this itinerary follows a different 
plan from the one for "Europe on $4 a Day." That out- 
line included stops of from five to eight days at each of six 
of the great cities of Europe, with shorter stays at several 
other points, while this tour includes rapid glimpses of 
over thirty interesting cities in five great countries. The 
expense proved about the same per day, although rapid trav- 
eling is usually considered more expensive than prolonged 
stays. 

We Have Included in our expense account every actual 
necessary expense, of steamer passage, both ways, rail road 
fares, board, carriage and car fares, all tips, admission 



fees, theatres, lunches, fruit, laundry, guide books, — practi- 
cally everything which could properly be included. 

We Have Not Counted souvenirs, clothing, camera ex- 
penses or anything in the nature of a purchase, because that 
would make the experiment an unfair one, as what you 
might leave v,ith the shop keepers might be vastly more, or 




GOOD BYE NEW YORK. 
(Courtesy N. G. L. S. S. Co.) 



possibly less than wliat we would feel tempted to spend. 
There is quite a saving on the Continent in taking camera 
film with you. It costs more in all of these countries ex- 
cept England. Be careful to keep it packed well so that the 
salt water will not affect it. 



ADVANCE WORK 

Passport. We had a passport from the former trip 
which we took along for emergency use, although it had ex- 
pired. A letter of introduction was furnished, also, with 
our travelers' cheques by the American Express Company. 
An unexpired passport is, of course, pleasant to have along. 
To get one, write to "Passport Bureau, State Department, 
Washington, D. C," for passjjort application blank. Fill it 
out and sign before a notary who has a seal, return to Wash- 
ington with $1.00 and the passport will come back quickly. 
Husband and wife do not need separate passports unless 
they are to travel, at times, separately. 

Guide Books. We used Rolf's "Satchel Guide to 
Europe," Robert Luce's "Going Abroad — Some Advice." 
The more I have occasion to consult these two books, the 
more I realize that they tell nearly all that one needs to, 
know in the way of general information about Foreign 
travel. "Murray's Hand Book of Travel Talk," is also, 
about the best thing in that line. 

The guide books which we used were : 

Going Abroad, paper, 50c; cloth $1 00 

Rolfe's Satchel Guide 1 50 

Murrays Hand Book of Travel Talk 1 35 

Baedeker's Southern Italy 1 80 

Central Italy 2 25 

Northern Italy 2 40 

From the Alps to Naples (condensed) 2 40 

Germany — The Rhine 2 20 

Germany Southern 1 80 

" Belgium and Holland 1 80 

London 1 80 

Part of these we had from a former trip and used them, 
although fresh ones would have been better, so we had to 
buy only part of them. To keej? expense down we did not 

9 



buy Austria or Great Britain^ although they would have 
been handy and worth the extra expense^ however^ we didn't, 
getting along pretty \vel\ with Satchel Guide and cheap 
local books. 

The Women's Best Tour Association, which has head- 
quarters at No. 1 1 Pinckney street, Boston, Mass., we 
found, all over Europe, to be, perhaps the best known of 
any American Travel organization. Membership is an ex- 
cellent thing for women traveling alone. A carefully re- 
vised list of pensions and lodgings is published, annually, 
for members only. The cost is $5.00 for the first year, let- 
ters of introduction from two members being required. Full 
information is furnished on request. 

The World's Union of Pensions publishes a small list 
of recommended pensions in many European cities. Copies 
may be had free of Miss Mary Rosch, 10-1 Schellingstrasse, 
Munich, Bavaria. 

Baedeker's lists of hotels and pensions are to be relied 
on, but many times the lists are too large to make a se- 
lection easy. 

Holiday Resorts and Recommended Addresses, is a 
good list of pensions, hotels and lodgings and costs 1 s, 6d, 
(27c). It may be obtained by remitting, (An Express mon- 
ey order is cheapest), to The Teachers Guild of Great Brit- 
ain and Ireland, 71 Gower street, W. C, London, England. 

In Using Any List of Addresses, or those you have se- 
lected, unless you are absolutely certain, follow this simple 
ride. Always go in a cab engaged by the hour, have the cab 
wait while you examine the accommodations and make your 
bargain, and if everything is not satisfactory, drive away to 
your next hotel or pension address, and so on. It is only 
under exceptional circumstances of weariness or delay that 

10 



this driving about on your iirst visit to a new city is not as 
enjoyable as any part of your sight seeing. 

Hotel Coupons. We bought of Thomas Cook and Son, 
(245 Broadway^ N. Y.), a supply of the well known hotel 
coupons. One sort cost $1.85 per day, with coupons for lodg- 
ing, breakfast, luncheon and dinner on four separate cou- 
pons which could be used, in most instances, at four differ- 
ent hotels in one day, if desired. Another sort cost $2.60 
for the day at a somewhat better class of hotels. The same 
coupons are furnished, without luncheon at $2.00 per day. 
We took a supply of all three kinds and found them very 
satisfactory. Cook also issues coupons at $3.00 and $4.00 
per day for some cities, good at a list of •specially luxurious 
hotels, but we did not take any of these. I have heard much 
talk from cock-sure travelers who have claimed that they 
could do much better without tlie coupons than with them. 
This may be so. I would not want to sa}^, but, again and 
again, we found them of great service and were always ac- 
corded the utmost courtesy and satisfactory accommoda- 
tions. I would not travel without them. They save all 
bargaining at hotels. 

Funds. The money we took with us, we carried in Am- 
erican Express Travelers' Cheques of $10.00 and $20.00 
denominations. They cost 50c per $100 and can be cashed 
almost anywhere. 

Notes of Interest and Code for Travelers is a book- 
let gotten out, free, for their partrons, by the American Ex- 
press Company, (65 Broadway, N. Y.) It contains cable 
code extensive enough for the average tourist. Copy left 
at home and one with you. 

Rail Road Tickets. We outlined our itinerary to the 
American Express Company and Thos. Cook & Son and re- 

11 



ceived practically the same quotation from each, $46.44, 
for the entire trip from Na^^les to London, except the side 
trip to Amsterdam, mentioned later. The tickets were in the 
form of books of coupons and were good for stop over at 
the points of our itinerary and also at many other points, 
without formalities. Rail travel was second class, the cus- 
tomary tourists' class, and first on lake, river and channel 
steamers. 

Baggage. We took a steamer trunk as far as Naples and 
left in it all of our heavy sea clothes, steamer rugs etc. The 
baggagemaster on the steamer took charge of it, and for- 
warded it to Southampton and held it there for us until, on 
our instruction, sent shortly before we reached England, 
they sent it to London in care of Thos. Cook & Son, and 
on our arrival, that firm in turn, delivered it at our hotel at 
a total cost of $3.42. From Naples to London we carried 
only one large hand bag. I say "carried," but, as a matter 
of fact, I never transported it a foot from the time we left 
New York until we returned, so plenty and so cheap are the 
porters, everywhere. I think, perhaps, two large sized 
suit cases, or bags would have been better in manv ways, 
but I am telling what we really did carry. 

Clothing. Here is a hard matter about which to give 
advice, but we are asked, so frequently as to exactly what 
we recommend that I will give here a list of every last thing 
that we took with us. It may not answer at all for anybody 
else, but it may be something of a guide or reminder. Any- 
way, it includes every article we had, and all we needed. 
Without any apology, we throw our baggage open for your 
inspection. 



12 



MR. ROLLINGSTONE 

A heavy "last wiuter" suit fol- steamer wear.* 
1 medium weight suit for travel. 
1 light weight black coat. 

1 extra pair trousers. 

2 suits heavy wool underwear for colder parts of voyages, 
(laundered by S. S. laundress.)* 

1 heavy overcoat for sea wear.* 
1 rain coat for travel. 
1 pair comfortable low shoes. 
1 pair comfortable laced shoes. 
1 soft felt hat. 

1 Panama hat (bought in Genoa for $3.60.) 
6 pairs hose. 
12 handkerchiefs. 
6 shirts. 
6 collars. 
6 pairs cuffs. 

(In addition all of the "last time" collars and cuffs in stock- 
worn on ship and thrown away.)* 

1 waterproof collar and pair cuffs for emergency wear. 

2 suits light underwear, wool. 
2 suits light underwear, cotton. 
2 outing flannel night shirts. 

1 pair heavy gloves.* 

1 bath robe.* 

1 pair "Tourist" light slippers. (These are most use- 
ful for wear on ship board, occasionally, to bath, in state room 
etc., and for the marble floors which prevail on the Continent.) 

A waterproof toilet roll, (not case) with pockets for razors, 
toilet and shaving soap in celluloid cases, comb, bursh ,tootli 
brush, tube tooth paste, etc. 

A fountain pen. 



MRS. ROLLINGSTONE 

1 good cloth suit, jacket, waist and skirt, for travel, of a 
color which does not show soil easily. 

1 extra skirt for ship board and for stormy sight seeing. 

3 white shirt waists. 

1 old silk waist for steamer wear.* 

1 good silk shirt waist. 

1 rain coat. 

1 sweater.* 

1 heavy golf cape. (Any heavy wrap, not too good, answ- 
ers.)* 

13 



2 pairs easy shoes. 

1 soft felt hat. 

1 light weight nice straw hat. (A panama is fine.) 

1 pair heavy gloves.* 

1 pair kid gloves (buy others on the way). 

1 long veil. 

2 suits wool underwear. 
2 suits light underwear. 

2 pairs light weight stockings. 




LAZY RESTFUL DAYS OX DECK. 
(Courtesy N. G. L. S. S. Co.) 

2 pairs medium weight stockings. 

1 pair heavy black equestrian tights." 

1 medium weight wool underskirt. 

1 serviceable black cloth underskirt. 

6 changes neckwear. 

Belts. 

12 handkerchiefs. 



14 



1 pair "Tourist" light felt dressing slippers. 
Bath robe.* 
Fountain pen. 

Toilet roll with pockets for soap, combs, brush, manicure 
articles, curling iron, tooth brush, etc. 

IN COMMON 

1 steamer trunk. 

1 large traveling case. (2 large suit cases might have been 
better.) 

2 steamer rugs.* 
Small hot water bag. 

Medicine case with assortment of favorite remedies. 

Anti sea sick granules. 

Travelers Ink Case. 

"Housewife," containing thread, needles, common, black and 
safety pins, scissors, hooks and eyes, buttons, tape, cord and 
twine. 

Clothes brush. ,, 

Playing cards. 

Magazines. 

A little thin writing paper and some enevlopes. Not much. 
You will prefer mostly the stationery of each city. 

Metal bottle of spirits of camphor, (the great comfort). 

Package of paper drinking cups. 

Cheap watches, (the $1.50 sort). Leave good watches at 
home. 

An eye cup. 



^Left in steamer trunk. 



15 



A CONFESSION 

Right at the start. I want to state that I'm throwing no 
stones at people who travel expensive^- If I had money 
enough to travel all that I wanted to in that way, without 
denying myself in other ways, I'd never limit myself on 
the luxury. We Americans all have the "Palm Garden" 
sort of tastes more or less, I fancy. First class on the fin- 
est steamers and trains de luxe. The very best suites at the 
grandest hotels. Always carriages or automobiles from 
private stables and never mind if they waited for hours, at 
so much a minute, while I saw the "view" all that I wanted 
to; never a glance at the prices on the card when I ordered 
an a la carte repast; all the baggage I needed, with a cour- 
ier to look after it and all other details of travel, and may- 
be a valet. I'm not quite sure about the valet, but I think 
so. 

And, at that, I doubt if I'd get any more joy out of travel 
than I do now, but I presume that that is the way I'd do it. 

On the other hand, If I couldn't travel about all that I 
care to at this happy medium of expense, I'd go cheaper, 
and less comfortably, and even roughing it, but I'd travel, 
anyway. That sets us right just at the start. 

As it is, on this experimental trip, we wish to be perfect- 
ly frank in saying that we have lived, on the whole, just 
a trifle better and more comfortably, averaging the whole 
trip, than we do at home, and, at home we do not practice 
self denial to an extent wliich requires the official attention 
of the authorities. 

INVESTED BEFORE THE START 

Guide books, (additions) $ 5 70 

Travelers cheques 2 00 

2 Steamship tickets, N. Y. to Naples 110 00 

16 



2 "Circular" R. R. tickets, 2nd class, Naples to 

London 89 88 

2 S. S. tickets, London, via Liverpool to Montreal. . 90 €0 

Total $297 58 

Each : 148 79 

(We bought also about $30 worth of Cook's hotel cou- 
pons as a starter, buying others along the way as needed, 
but as they figure later, in day to day expenses, we do not 
include them here.) 

We thus had ourselves booked completely for the entire 
transportation and with less money to care for, right at the 
start. 

NEW YORK 

The expense account was to begin on arrival in New 
York City, April 30th, to sail the next day. 

Good stopping places in New York are: 

The Bible Teachers Training School, 541 Lexington ave., 
cor. 49th street. For double room with breakfast and dinner 
for two, $3.25 up, according to season. With bath, $3.50 
up. 

The Hotel Earle, 103 Waverly place, room with bath and 
meals for two, $5.00. 

The Judson, Washington Sq. room $1.00 each, up. 

Grand Union Hotel, 42d street, room $1.00 each up. 

The New Grand, Broadway and 31st street, room $1.50 
up, two in room, $2.50 up. 

Because it was handiest we went to the Grand Union and 

were comfortable. Expense in New York. 

Hotel, Supper, room, breakfast and tips $4 50 

Taxicab to ferry 1 25 

Baggage transfer, street car fares, etc 75 

$6 50 

17 



THE GATEWAY 

We sailed on May 1st, per steamer Neckar of the North 
German Lloj^d Line, (Oelrichs & Co., General Agents, 5 
Broadway, N. Y.) The Neckar is one of the best of the 
one class boats, large, comfortable and well equipped. We 
had reserved our berths earl^y in February and therefore 
got a fine, promenade deck, two berth state room. 



m^^^^^iQ/:^ 




Dampfe: " Ico 21 SeplembeT I9S~ 

^u net). 



Czaren Suppe Fleischbriihe 



Aul BeslelluD 



Triiffel Leber 

S:il. Hiring-, Gurke 

Rahm-Ka; 



. Hernng-. Cacumber-. Pol 



In one of his stories Davis makes one of his characters 
say^ ''There are three rules for a street fight. I've forgot- 
ten the first and second, but the third is to strike first." That 



II 



is the way it is in booking steamship passage. Forget every 
delaying contingency and took as early as there is even 
hope of your going. A fine well located state room is not 
vital, but it is a great help toward a comfortable voyage, 
and there is seldom much loss if you are obliged to give up 
going. 




DINING SALOON S. S. NECKAR. 
(Courtesj' N. G. L. S. S. Co.) 



The rate to Naples was $55 each. Our booking was as 
"2d Cabin." technically, but there was no first cabin so we 
had all the best of it. I would never hesitate to go "Id sa- 

19 



loon on a first class boat carrying both first and second class 
passengers, but, as it chances, I never have. The "cabin 
class" boats are very satisfactory. If I did go in a second 
saloon, I should I think, pick for one of the newest and best 
boats. Would you like to know what sort of people travel 
in the saloon of a cabin class steamer? There were on this 
one, two lawyers, one contracting engineer, one newspaper 
proprietor, four artists, one bookkeeper, four merchants 
in various lines, one musician, one retired farmer, one in- 
surance adjuster, three priests, two ministers, one live stock 
salesman, two physicians, one newspaper writer, and other 
good American occupations. Those of us who had wives 
were accompanied by the same, (that's a feature of "cabin 
class' boats, too), and there were several lovely ladies of 
various ages, and parties of ladies, traveling alone. A fine 
company. In addition, we had the Italian chorus from the 
Metrojiolitan opera house, an Italian family of acrobats 
and rather an interesting aggregation all around. 

Some of the impromptu concerts on deck those beautiful, 
balmy nights in the Southern seas helped a lot to make the 
trip enjoyable, and then, every morning, in good weather, 
the acrobats had to practice their acts on the lower deck 
and most of the rest of the time we were eating. They sure 
do feed you well on a German liner. 

The Azores were passed well to the South of us and the 
tenth day we were at 



20 




THE BIG ROCK DOESN'T LOOK SO FAMILIAR FROM ALL 

SIDES. 

GIBRALTAR 

A couple of hours stop peruiitted a pleasant glimpse of 
the cosmopolitan city, going ashore on the S. S. Go's, tender. 



THE HARBOR'S PICTURESOUE CRAFT. 

21 



On this pai'ticnlar voyage the route, instead of being via 
Naples to Genoa, was the other way around. Tliat was the 
only feature at all at variance with our plans, but all tours 
have something a little dift'erent, and the chance to see Gen- 
oa for a day and a half, living on the boat, was welcome. 

GENOA- (Genova) 

Is usually slighted by tourists, but we found it more than 
interesting. We wouldn't have minded a week there, for, 
like Naples there are so many beautiful trips in the environs. 
We lived on the boat, but we took time to in\'estigate these 
addresses : 

Hotel Pension Luzern, 15 via Almeria, 6 lire up. 
Pension Smith, Piazza Caricamento, 8 lire up. 
Pension Weber, 9 Via Palestro, 6 lire up. 
Hotel Milan, Cooks coupons at $1.85. 
Hotel Continental, Cooks $2.60 coupons. 

Cab fares are 1 lira, (^Oc) per course inside the city, 2 
lire (lOc), per hour. Street cars, according to distance, 10 





GENOA — Our Steamer at the Dock 
22 



to iO centimes. (2 to 8 cents). Walking with occasional 
trams is the best and cheapest way around. During our 
short stay we saw a good deal of the city and made trips to 
the famous Carapo Santo and to the pretty resort Pegli, 
(Pay-lee), with its magnificent villas. 

Sailing in the afternoon we passed the islands of Elba 
nad Ischia and skirted, the beautiful Italian coast until the 
picturesque, flower, fruit and music boats came out to us in 
the magnificent Bay of Naples. 

There is always a variation in the tipping and extra ex- 
penses on different trips, but we gave about the same as 
others of our steamer acquaintances and, as usual, the 
matter was pretty thoroughly discussed in advance all 
around. We have not included a wireless telegram which 
cost .f!^.^,) and a tiny wine and mineral water bill, as those 
matters are personal. A laundress on board did excellent 
work for us at moderate rates. 

Our expenses on board : Table waiters, $4 ; bed room 
steward, $2 ; deck chairs rented on board, $2, deck 
steward, $1; bath room stewardess, 5()c; laundress, $1. To- 
tal $11. oO or $5.7o each. There was no benefit concert. 
The j\Ietropolitan chorus furnished a continual one. 

The accomodating purser gave us, in exchange for Ameri- 
can money, all the Italian silver we needed for landing. 

For the convenience of readers, here are the other lines 
having Mediterranean services : 

North German Lloyd, (Oelrichs & Co., .5 Broadway, N. Y.), 
1st class, $70 and up; 2d class $55. Some steamers carry one 
(2d) cabin only. 

Hamburg-American Line, (37 Broadway, N. Y.), 1st class, 
$80 up; 2d class, $52.50 up. 

Cunard Line, (Vernon H. Brown, Gen'l. Agt., 21 State St.. 
N. Y., 1st class, $70 up; 2d class, $50 up. 

23 



White Star Line, (9 Broadway, N. Y.). 1st class, $75 up; 
2d class, $52.50, during certain months only. 

LaVeloce Line, (Bolognesi, Hartfield & Co., 50 Wall St., N. 
Y.), cne class only, $55 and up. 

Anchor Line, (Henderson Bros., General Agts., 17 Broad- 
way, N. Y.), one class only, $60. 

Fabre Line, (J. Ter Kuile, Gen'l. Agt., 33 Broadway, N. Y.), 
1st cabin only, $75 and upward. 

Austro-American Line, (Phelps Bros. & Co., Gen'l. Agts., 2 
Washington St., N. Y.), 1st cabin, $70 up; 2d cabin, $55 up. 
From New Orleans, 1st class, $70 and up; 2d class, $60 up. 

I.lcyd Italiano, (C. B. Richard & Co., General Agts., 31 
Broadway, N. Y.), only first cabin, $65 and up. 



~1 



•*: "■ '^-t^' •' ,■'*■ 



PEGLI. 



24 




NAPLES — Castello di Revigliano. Vesuvius Beyond. 
(Courtesy N. G. L. S. S. Co.) 

NAPLES- (Nap-o-li) 

I do not know of anything comparable in beauty to the 
beginning of a first European trip by an entry into the Bay 
of Naples, unless it be the beginning of a second trip that 
way^ even possibly, a third. I'll tell you with more certainty 
about that, sometime, maybe. 

We landed at our own dock this time and the nice steamer 
boys carried our modest baggage to the Custom House and 
arranged it on the tables. (I mentioned, you remember, that 
our steamer trunk with all our heavy sea clothing, rugs, etc., 
had been left with the baggagemaster on board for forward- 
ing to London.) 

The Customs formalities were very simple and, with our 
hand bag and coats we wandered out of the gate, and, with- 
out a hint of bargaining, we handed a cab driver a card on 

25 



which w.is written, plainly, the name and address of the 

fii'st pension we were going to try : 

This was the Rolling Stone Club's Naples list: 

Pension Pinto-Storey, Piazza Amedeo, 6 francs and up. 
Pension Maurice, No. 3, Via Partenope, 6 francs. 
Pension Muller, No. 4, Via Partenope, 7 francs. 
Pension Balder, No. 10, Via Caracciolo, 6 to 8 francs. 
Pension Quisisana, Parco Margherita, 6 to 9 francs. 
Hotel Britannique, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 8 to 12 francs 
Hotel Pension de la Riviera, Cook's $1.85 coupons. 
Parker's Hotel, Cook's $2.60 coupons. 






■X» 



XAl'Lli;.^ — Tlir .Swarm of LiUlo Eoats. 

The cabby understood and set off at a gallop and we were 
soon at the Pension Pinto-Storey. We had the cabman wait 
while we investigated and found satisfactory accomodations, 
and then paid him 2 lire, (iOc). He howled some, but it 
was more than enough so we let him howl. That's a very 
good way. Pay the exact fare and then a tritie more and let 
them howl. If they don't howl, or if they dont' howl long, 
you can make up your American mind that you've been lib- 
eral. If they smile and thank you effusively, you have been 
prodigal. In the end they will ti]) their hats and say 
"Grazia," anyway. 

26 



As tourists wh are onl_v moderately well to do cannot af- 
ford, when they travel, to make long stays in cities, which 
they have already visited, we could bargain at the Pinto for 
only two nights, and for a fine large room, overlooking the 
bay and across from Vesvivius we jjaid 8 lire per day, 
($1.60), for all included. The pension is a fine one and 
has an excellent table. 

Cab fares are, for 1 or 2 persons, 80 centimes, (l6c), per 
course. By the hour, 1 lire, 50 ctms, (30c), for the first 





NAPLES — Making Shoes. 
27 



hour and 1.20, (24c), for each hour thereafter. A tip of 
from 10 to 20 centimes for a short drive up to anything you 
like, say 1 lire for a long drive by time. Taximeters are 
on many horse cabs and figure at about the same rates. 

All of the countries on this trip save England have deci- 
mal currency vi'itli dift'erent units of value. The unit in 
Italy is the lira, (lee-rah), plural, lire, (leer). 100 cen- 
times make one lira. 5 cntms equal about one cent of our 
money, 1 lira is about twenty cents. Thats all you need to 




FISHING BOATS. 

know. Divide the amount in lire by five to get the result 
roughly, in dollars and cents. That is. 80 lire 50 centiines 
equal, $16.10. 

The Naples electric and cable cars are so improved that 
one can get about anywhere on them by a little map study, 
but to get quickly to a specific address or for aimless, inter- 
esting excursions about the city the cab is the best and not 
expensive. 

Car fares are in zones of 10 centimes each so fares may 
run as low as 2c up to 8c, and even more on suburban lines 

28 



according to the distance you go. It is quite a system, too. 
The person riding a few blocks pays 10 centimes and does 
not have to help pay the fare of the party who goes several 
miles. On the other hand the excessively long ride figures 
a trifle more than with us. This same system, at practical- 
ly the same rates prevails nearly everywhere that we went 
on this trip so that unless we mention a different rate in a 
city you can bank on this one everywhere. 

j\IAII>. We used the agencies of the American Express 
and of Thomas Cook & Sgn exclusively, for mail, on this 
tour. The following was the mail itinerary we made copies 
of for our home office and ourselves before we left home, 
excluding all but our "!Mail Towns." 

May 1. Sail from Hoboken, X. J., per S. S. Neckar, N. G. 
Lloyd Pier, 11 a. m. 

May 16. Naples, Italy, care Thos. Cook & Son, Galleria 
Vittorla, Via Chiatamone. Cable address, "Cook." 

May 19, ROME, Care Thomas Cook & Son, 54 Piazza 
Esedra di Termini. Cable address, care "Cook." 

May 26, FLORENCE, care T. Cook & Son, 10 Via Torna- 
buoni. Cable address "Cook." 

June 4, INNSBRUCK, Austria, care Poste restante. 

June 5-8, MUNICH, Germany, care poste restante, (post- 
rest-tawnt) German, Postlagernde Sendungen, (Post-lahg-ern- 
de Send-ung-en). 

June 10, NURNBERG, care post restante. 

June 14, FRANKFORT, care post restante. 

June 17, COLOGNE, care Cook & Son, No. 1, Domhof, cable 
address, "Cook." 

June 21, BRUSSELS, Belgium, Cook & Son, 41 Rue de la 
Madeleine. 

June 23, ANTWERP, American Express Co., 7 Quai Van 
Dyck. Cable, "Amexco." 

June 25, ROTTERDAM, Holland. American Express Co., 
8a Reederijstraat, "Amexco." 

June .30, LONDON, Eng., American Express Co., 3 Water- 
loo place, "Cicatrix.", 

July 7, LIVERPOOL, American Express Co., 10 James St., 
"Cicatrix." 

July 19, MONTREAL, Canada, care steamer. 

29 




THL-: AMAl^l''! KUIVK — Shoemakers. 

We have given this list in full and accurately, partly to 
show the convenient form and partly because you may want 
to use it almost exactly. Arriving on Sunday and leaving 
on Tuesday morning, we did not try to do more than revisit 
some of the familiar spots. Departing, we tij^ped at the 
pension, waiter, 1 lira, concierge, 1, porter, 50 cntms, maid, 
1 lira. We inadvertently missed one waiter. 

GENOA AND NAPLES 

GENOA and Naples: 

Pension, 2 days, with tips $6.90 

Cabs and trams 3.60 

Tips, (50), Admissions, (80) 1.30 

Total $11.80 

Each $5.90 

At the railroad station, we left our traveling case in stor- 
age, (De-pos-it-o), taking with us only our coats and a tiny 
hand bag. 

Our cab to the railroad station. Stazione Centrale, (Stat- 
zee-o-nee Sen-trah-lee), cost us, tip and all. only 35 cents 

30 



for ourselves and baggage, and one of the convenient Ital- 
iam R. R. station porters called Facchino, singular, Facchini^ 
plural, (pronounced Fali-keen-o and Fah-keen-ee) attend- 
ed to our "deposito," baggage and found our second class 
compartment for Salerno, deserving the 50 cntms, (lOc). 
The ordinary fee is 20 to 40 cntms. (-i to 8 cents). 

Our ticket read to Salerno and return, but we got out at 
the last station before reaching there. Vietri, (Ve-a-tree), 
and tore out of our ticket book the unused coupons which 
were put in merely to make the route continuous. 

Vietri is a tiny town but interesting in its way and there 
were half of a dozen carriages in waiting. I had lots of 
fun bargaining for the drive to Amalfi. It is very easy 
to get into the habit, in Italy. With the swarthy, earnest 
little driver holding up 8 fingers and I holding up 4 as the 
rate noted in Baedeker, forcing him down to 6 and finally 
moving back toward the station, remarking nonchalantly, 
in my superb Italian, "Non ! ! ! Non ! ! ! Trano pour Salerno." 
That fetched him and in a moment we were off, rattling 




ALONG THE AMALFI DRIVE. 

31 



away in the tiny carriage for what^ I must believe is the 
most beautiful and interesting drive in the world. 

We stopped after a little and lunched in the tiny garden 
of ]Matteo Pisani in the suburbs of the village. Matt charg- 
ed us too much, by half when wc paid him 2 lire each, for 
his pane, (pah-nee; bread), and liis omoletto, his vino, (vee- 




AMALFI from the Hotel Cappuccini. 
(Courtesy N. G. L. S. S. Co.) 

no; wine), and his frutta (fruit). But it was worth while 
to eat it in his garden and even to tip him a dime beside. 
Then came the glorious drive to Amalfi. Our driver could 
not explain much of the route. He didn't need to, but, Oh ! 
how he could solicit for the next days drive. And with 
success. 

32 



AT AMALFI, (Am-al-fee), we used $1.85 hotel coupons 
at the Hotel Marine Riviere. This one is down close by the 
water and near the center of the town. The next day we 
bragged about how nicely we were used and another party 
which stopped on the same grade coupons^ at the Hotel de 
la Lune, bragged more, and still another party which climb- 
ed the many steps to the Hotel Cappuchini, in an old monas- 
tery, and used the $2.60 coupons, bragged the most of all. 

Other addresses, for the longer stay which you will covet, 
are: 

Hotel Syrene, 7 lire. 

Hotel Pension Santo Catarina, 6 to 7 lire. 




THE AMALFI DRIVE — POSITANO. 
(Courtesy N. G. K S. S. Co.) 



33 



But we could stop only over night, and, (what a shame 
not to write for pages and pages about this enchanting 
spot), we gave our one lira tips each to the two fine waiters 
and the chambermaid, dickered with our driver for 12 lire, 
$2.40) to Sorrento, and departed reluctantly. 

We lunched on the veranda of the little Hotel Margher- 
ita at Positano, and, of all the delicious repasts that — but 
stop ! This little book tells merely practical things. We 
couponed for it and paid a trifle extra. 

AT SORRENTO we went to the Hotel Londres & Lor- 
elei. 

Where we were excellently served on an arrangement of 
7 lire each for dinner, bed and breakfast. Other Sorrento 
addresses : 

Hotel de la Syrene, (Cook's $1.8.5 coupons). 

Hotel Cocumella, 6 to S lire. 

Hotel de I'Europe, 8 lire up. 

Hotel Tramontane, (Cook's $2.60- coupons). 

The next morning we tore ourselves from the beautiful 
terrace where we breakfasted, and drove to Castellammare 
with the same cab which had waited over for us, but I would 
not advise you to do it, for, though it is jjretty enough, it is 
tame after the wonderful beauty of the rest of the drive, 
and. besides the electric cars run close by the road and are 
preferable, so we will charge that drive to the experiment 
and pretend to have taken the car. 

At Castellammare we caught the steam cars for Naples, 
and, rescuing our baggage from "deposito." we boarded the 
express for Rome : 

The Amalfi Drive: 

34 




ROME — St. Peters from the Pincian. 
(Courtesy N. G. L. S. S. Co.) 

Cab, Vietri to Amalfi $1.00 

Cab, Amalfi to Sorrento 2.40 

Car to Castellammare, train to Naples 1.00 

Tips-Cabbie. (80c) Miscellaneous, (65c) 1.45 

Hotel, Amalfi and tips 4.40 

Hotel Sorrento and tips 3.20 

Lunches, etc 3.00 

Total $16.45 

Eacli $8.23 

ROME, (Roma) 

A stop merely for mail and. because it was one of the four 
towns revisited, our stay was short. 

Cab fares don't change much in Rome, being one lira, 

35 



(20c) per course for two people, per hour, 2 lire, (40c) in- 
side the walls and about 3 lire outside the walls. 

The ROLLING STONE CLUB'S Rome addresses: 

Pension Boos, Palazzo Rosingliosi Via del Quirinale 43. (6 
to S francs). 

Pension des Anglais, 5 Piazza Barberini, (6 to 7 francs). 

Pension du Sud, via Lombardia, Porta Pinciana, (6 to 8 
francs.) 

Pension Lucarni, 5 via Gregoriana, (6 francs). 

Hotel Victoria, 24 Via due Macelli, (8 francs and up). 

Pension Bella, Via del Babuino, (8 lire up). 

Fisher's Park Hotel, (Cook's $1.85 coupons). 

Hotel de Milan, ($2.60 coupons). 

Hotel Continental, ($3 coupons). 

The Boos was the same fine pension we visited before, 
onh^ much improved and enlarged. We wanted especially 
nice accommodations for our stay of only two nights, so we 
selected a room at 8 lire each, full pension, and were very 
comfortable. A great many of our registered members stop 
at this pension and Herr Boos is indeed a "friend at Rome." 
We visited a few of the ])laces we had not done on our pre- 
vious visit and hurried along: 

Pension, 2 days, and tips $7.20 

Cabs and cars 1.25 

Admissions and tips 1.42 

Total $9.87 

Each $4.93 

We had selected two "Hill Towns" to break the jump to 
Florence. It was hard to choose two only, from among so 
many, and we envied the two independent American young 
men whom we met, from the General Electric forces, who 
had taken over a month to walk from Rome to Florence 
and had visited nearly all of these interesting places in the 
most leisurely fashion. But we had stolen our time for 
Italy, anyway, and could spare but three nights, so we step- 
ped first from the train at 

36 



ORVIETO (Or-vee-ate-o) 

Directly back of the station is the car of the inclined rail- 
road, (fu-nic-o-la-re). The town is built on the top of a 
great tufa rock. The inclined road is run b}' water power 
in this manner: A tank under the car is filled with several 
tons of water at the top of the incline. Then when the car 
decends it drags the light car up. At the bottom the water 
is let out and the car at tie top is filled, and so it goes all 
day long. At the top of the incline hotel carriages and a 
public omnibus were waiting. 




ORVIETO. 

(Courtesy N. G. L. S. S. Co.) 

The Club's addresses : 

Grand Hotel Belle Arti, Palais Bisenzi, ($2.60 coupons). 
(Special to Club members, 2 or mere, 8 to 12 lire for single 
day, less for longer). 

Palace Hotel. 

37 



Albergo del Duomo. Right across from the Cathedral. 
Room 1 1-2 lire. Meals in cafe nearby. (Clean and interest- 
ing). 

We took the bus to the Belle Arti and after installing our- 
selves in a room in the old palace which had ft little private 
garden with fountains, shade trees and flowers, we put in 
the rest of the day walking about the ancient town with its 
wonderful cathedral. Twenty four hours is a good long 
stay for the average tourist. It can be done hurriedly in 
an afternoon. On the other hand, a much longer time would 
be enjoyable and for those who love wine, the famous Or- 
vieto, (practically the same as the storied "Est! Est! Est!!" 
of Montefiascone), has charms of its own. Its wonderful. 




ORVIETO — A vista of the 
38 



IIS '-athedral. 




ORVIBTO — A hand made shoe factory. In this shop 14 men 
and boys were "working. 

haunting flavor, its delicious boquet, the dancing, hiring col- 
or of it and. above all — Pardon me. I forgot my promise 
not to "pad," and the jjractical nature of this booklet. This 
wonderful wine is furnished free with the almost equally 
wonderful meals at the Belle Arti. 
A day in Orvieto: 

Hotel $4.60 

Waiters, (1 lire and 40) Porters, (1.10), chamber- 
maid, (50) 60 

Bus, (2), Incline (1.20) Facchini (30) 70 

Lunch basket (2.10) 42 

Total $6.32 

We descended the incline after a morning view out over 
the edge of the rock from all four sides, and took the train 
for our other Hill Town 

39 



SIENA, (See-enna) 

There are a lot of pensions, at very reasonable rates at 
Siena, but we were satisfied with the tirst one on our list: 

Pension Chiusarelli, viale Curtatone, 6 L up. 
Pension Sta Caterina, 31 via Delle Belle Arti, 5 L up. 
Pension Saccaro, 19 via Sallustio Bandini, 5 and up. 
Grand Hotel Royal de Siene, via Cavour 39, ($2.60 coupons). 
Grand Holtel Continental via Cavour, 1.5, 8 lire up. 

We wanted a pretty good room, so paid 7 lire each per 
day for our two day stay at the Chiusarelli, (Kew-sir-ray- 
lee). The pension was good and largely patronized by 




(Courtesy N. G. L. S. S. Co.) 

SIENA — The Trackless Trolley. 

American and English tourists. Always the first dinner at 
a new pension is a problem on how many courses there will 
be, and how much to the course, and how heartily it is best 
to partake of each, that one may be fill-ed, for, in the moment 
when ye thing not, the cheese cometh, after the which no man 
may eat. But there was plenty, and then a few courses at 
this pension. The dining room was partly on a terrace, 
glass roofed; over in the park across the vine covered 

40 



slopes, the regimental band was playing, — and two days was 
too little. 

We didn't need to use cabs much, but the fares were only 
one lira per course for 1 or 2 persons and the novel trackless 
trolley was available at the usual fares to many points. I 
hope that it will be so that you can sta_y longer than we did 
at Siena, but it is wonderful how 48 hours may be utiliz- 
ed, and leisurelv at that, so the old, old town its atmo- 
sphere, its history, its beauty and romance, will be yours for 
always. 












SIENA — Facade of the Cathedral. 
(Courtesy N. G. L. S. S. Co.) 

41 



Two days rt Siena: 
Pension, ($5.60); 2 waiters, (50 and 50 cntms) 
cliambei-maid, (40) porter, (1 lira); boy, (40) 

cntms) $6.16 

Guide, (2 lire); lunch on cars, (1.40) 68 

Admissions, (3 lire); tips. (1.20); cabs, (2.75); 
porters, (1.15) 1.62 

Total $8.46 

Each $4.23 

Tliat was all of the Hill Towns that we allowed ourselves. 
We felt the call of Perugia^ Assisi^ Arezzo, Spoleto, Terni, 
Spello^ Trevi, ^lontefiascone, Viterbo and all the rest;, but 
to visit them all is a tour b_v itself, and, besides, if, in this 
way of doing it a "Second Trail" is possible, why not a 
third .^ and, as Mis. Roilingstone says, "There should always 
be a little of Italv in everv tour." , 




PISA — Leaning- Tower and Cathedral. 
(Courtes.v N. G. L. S. S. Co.) 



42 



PISA, (Pee-zah) 

We cliatii>,ed cars at Empoli and went over to Pisa for a 

few liours before reaching Florence. We arranged this list 

of stopping places : 

Pension Signora di Prete, 20 Lung Arno Regio, 7 lire up. 
Grand Hotel de Londre, ($1.85 coupons). 
Hotel Victoria, $(2.60 coupons). 

But, we did not need any of them, driving directly to the 
famous Cathedral, Leaning Tower and Campo Santo for a 
hasty glimpse, and back to the evening train for 

FLORENCE (Firenze) 

This was the tliird of our revisited places and we sternly 
limited our stay. 
Our addresses : 

Pension Giacliiiio, 13 Piazza d'Azeglio, (6 lire). 

Pension Lucchesi, 16 Lung Arno Zecca Vecchia, (7 lire and 
up). 

Pension Sammuri, 6 Lung Arno della Borsa, (6 lire and up). 

Pension Lottini, 6 Lung Arno Corsini, (6 lire and up). 

Slmi's Pension, 2 Limg Arno delle Grazie, (6 to 9 lire). 

Palace Hotel, (G. Benini), 7 Lung' Arno Guicciardini, 9 lire 
up, (except Spring). Ten per cent, off bills of "Rolling Stone 
Club" members. 

Deutsches Evangelisclies Hospiz, 130 via de Serragli, (5 to 6 
lire). 

Hotel de Londre et Metropole, ($1.8.5 coupons). 

Hotel Minerva, ($2.60 coupons). 

We had the cabman take us directly to the Lucchesi, 
(Look-aisy), and found it just as it has been for thirty 
years or more, one of the best pensions in the world. We were 
exacting as to room so paid 7-50 lire, ($1.50) each, per day. 

Cabs and cars same as before and as in Rome. We visit- 
ed in our short stay a few of the many places we missed 
on our former visit, allowed our laundry, forwarded by par- 
cels post from Siena, to catch up, and hurried along. 

43 




FLORENCE — The Loggia. 
(Courtesy N. G. L. S. S. Co.) 

PISA— porters and tips, (75): cabs, (2.50); coffee(75) $ .80 

FLORENCE— pension, 2 days 6.00 

Pension tips, waiter, (1.50 and 60) ; maid and porter 

(1 lire each) 82 

Laundry, forwarded (4.10) 82 

Tips, (1.70) ; cabs (7 lire) ; admissions, (2 lire) 2.14 

Total $10.58 

Each 5.29 

As we were on a fast corridor train running to Venice 
we were just a little crowded on this jump, not but that we 
got seats but there is much to see from the train and with 
inside seats we couldn't see much. However, there was a 
young artist in the seat with me who comforted me a lot. 

44 



I told him of how 1 tried, and tried. ;uk1 tried, and tried to 
appreciate the Old Masters, and got only a glimmering here 
and there, in spite of the fact that other travelers whom I 
met, and some who came back home from hurry up trips like 
mine, and who don't have a bit more artistic -talent thin I, 
seemed to be so impressed and to feel so much. 




liuLuGXA — Church of San Domenico. 
"Possibly," he said, "if von studied carefully for ten 
years earnestly, saw all of these pictures often, and you 
really love pictures, you might get an appreciation after 
awhile. I'm not so certain about those other people you 
speak of. I, for myself, after a thorough art course at 
home, have been over here for twenty months now, groping 
around among the great paintings and it is just coming to 
me a little." 

45 



"Yes." I said, "but these people talk so feelingly!" 
"Once/' said the young artist, "at a banquet, Congress- 
man A. said with pride that he had never ridden on a rail- 
road pass. Congressman B. who spoke next remarked, "I 
wish that I could say as much,' and Marshall Wilder who 
was present, broke in, "Why don't you say it, B; A. did?' " 
And so, if you ever hear me talking as a returned tourist 
should talk about ART, you will know, where I got my en- 
couraa-ement. 




THE PUBLIC WASH Tl'l;. 



BOLOGNA 

Someway the town didn't look vfrv })romising so we shun- 
ned the hotel busses and took a cab. 
Our list includes : 

Hotel Pellegrino, 7 Rue Hugo Bassi, $(1.S5 coupons). 
Hotel Stella d'ltaliace Aqullla Xera, 8.50 lire up. 
Hotel Brun, 11 lire up. 

We went to the Pellegrino and found much comfort at 
9-'25 lire each per day, all included. Lord Byron, accord- 

46 



ing to a proud tablet in the corridor also found comfort at 
this Albergo in 1819. Cabs are 1 lire per course, but they 
are not much needed, the cars do fully as well and walking- 
through the wonderfully arcaded streets and among the 
quaint sights is the most fun of all. We stayed two days 
and when we came to leave we were much perplexed how to 
tip the numerous servants who had been good to us. I fig- 
ured that 10 per cent, of our hotel bill was about the proper 
thing, but how to divide that amount among the 2 or 3 wait- 
ers, the boots, the two maids and the porters was puzling. 
I paid my bill in cash. The head waiter was standing by, 
a maid was hanging over the stair rail of the floor above. 

Handing the proprietor 4 lire, (80c), I said: "This is to 
be divided in tips. It is a little more than 10 per cent, of 
my bill." 

The landlord promptly handed it to the head waiter who 
was effusive and shouted to the one above, "Grazia pour 
Senora," and she grazied promptly to Mrs. Rollingstone 
and everyone seemed happ}'. We went away with quite 




BOLOGNA — Fitting on Slices Outside a Shop. 

47 



good feeling all around and it >va,s a plan I followed fre- 
quently thereafter in cases of doubt. 
Two days in Bologna: 

Hotel and tips . ; $8.20 

Cabs and cars, (7 L). porters, (60 cntnis), admis- 
sions and tips, (2.30) ices and coffee, (75 cntms 2.14 



Total $10.34 

Each 5.17 




VERONA— A Street Scene. 



VERONA 

It is a pretty ride up to Verona and there are several stops 
along the way which I would have liked to have made, but 
could not spare the time. Some tourists do V^erona between 
trains, but our standard two night stop seemed horribly hur- 
ried. One has this so thoroughly impressed ever3''where in 
Europe. There are so many people who are having such 
gloriously long stays everywhere. Two lovely English 
ladies at Verona were, "Staying only three weeks, this time, 
because we were heah eighteen months lahst yeah." I don't 
know how they did it, I'm sure. It must have crowded the 

48 




VERONA — The Arena. 



year some, but it made our "Day iu — day there — day out." 
seem like the acrobat's triple somersault over the elephant 
at the circus. 

Our stopping places : 

Hotel Riva San Lorenzo and Cavour, ($1.85 coupons). 

Hotel Enropa. 7 lire up. 

Hotel (le Londre et Deux Tours, ($2.60 coupons). 

The Hotel Riva is all right and we used coupons there. 
Cabs and cars cost the same as Bologna. There is much, 
very much to see and enjoy, but we held to our itinerary, 
took the train for Dezenzano where we changed to a boat 
up the Lake of Garda (Lago di Gardo), embarking in Italy 
and landing in the Austrian Tyrol. In leaving the Verona 
hotel we clung to our 10 per cent, tipping plan with suc- 
cess, giving the entire tips to the landlord in the presence of 
the head waiter, presenting also to the porter all of the un- 
used Italian postage stamps we had left. 
The Cost — Two Days: 

49 



Hotel, omnibus and tips $8.80 

Lunch on boat 1.40 

Cabs and cars, (3.40); porters, (2.20); admis- 
sions, (1 L). 1.32 

Guides (1.30); boat train, (1.20) 50 

Total .$12.02 

Each 6.01 

The Lago di Garda is not quite so beau'ifiil as Como, but 
it is nevertheless a wonderful trip and Riva, which nestles 
among the mountains at the head of the lake is delightful. 
The customs formalities at this point were trivial. 




VERONA — Ponte Delia Pietra. 
(Courtesy N. G. L. S. S. Co.) 



50 



RIVA, CRee-vah) Austrian Tyrol 

We walked from the boat landing to the hotel, a porter 
luggmg our bag. It was only a few steps. 

Austrian money is about the same as Italian^ Swiss and 
French except in name. The unit is the krone which has 
a value of a little over 20 cents. (3 mills over^ to be exact), 
and 100 hellers make one krone. That's all you need to 
know for touring. Dividing by 5 gives the amount in Am- 
erican dollars and cents, thus: 5K, 50h or, as it is written, 
5:50, is, roughly, $1.10. We had only a little Italian mon- 
ey left and the hotel keeper changed it for us into Austrian 
cash for very slight exchange. 

Our list of liotels : 

Hotel Riva, room from 2.50 kronen, (50c), ($1.85 coupons). 

Hotel Pension du Lac, 7 k up. 

Lido Palace Hotel, room from 3 K up, $2.60 coupons. 

We couponed for supper, lodging and breakfast at the 
Hotel Riva, and were well pleased. As will be noted, we 
lunched on tlie deck of tlie Lake of Garda steamer, at 70 



■,ir "■^jfa.^g iS i Sw 




LAKE OF GARDA— A Landing. 
51 




LAKE OF GARDA — A Party of Mountain Climbers. 

cents each, including tip. For the American tourist, Riva 
was only a pleasant breathing s^jot. We had decided to 
drive, about 23 miles, across to Trient, and, with the aid of 
our hotel porter we succeeded in getting a price for a two 
horse carriage and driver for the trip at 20 kronen, to which 
we added a 2 k tip at the end. This was probably too much, 
and I think we would have done better barffaining with a 




HOW WE WENT — From Riva to Trent. 
52 



driver on the street, alone, but the trip was, perhaps, worth 
the money. It would have been pleasanter taken follow- 
ing a rain. It was rather dusty. When you go, I hope 
there wil have been a slight shower. 

We stopped for lunch at Vezzano in the garden of the Al- 
bergo Croee D'Oro. This was an experience and worth the 
overcharge of 10.10 K for luncheon for ourselves and the 
driver which included a bottle of the famous Vino Santo, as 
wonderful, and local, a wine as the famous "Est! Est ! Est!" 
of Orvieto and Montefiascone. Going over this road again, 
however, in either direction, I think we would lunch at the 
romantic Castle of Toblino on Lake Toblino, where accom- 
modations may be obtained of the castellan, we were told. 

TRENT, (Trento or Trient) 

Our addresses : 

Imperial Hotel Trento, room 3 k up, ($2.60 coupons). 

Hotel Carloni. 

Hotel de I'Europa, room 2.50 k up, $1.85 coupons. 

We used coupons at the last named and could not have 




THE TYROL — A TVay Station. 
53 



been treated more pleasantly. A stroll around the town 
finished our day and the next morning we pased along. The 
porter carried our grip to the station. 

Two days : 

Hotel Riva eoui)ons . .$2.80 

Tips, waiter, 1 K; maid, 1 K 40 

Luncheon Vezzano and tips 2.10 

Carriage and tips 4.40 

Trient liotel, ( coupons) 2.80 

Tips, Porter, 1 K; maid 1 K, (missed tlie waiter .40 
Other tips, (1 K) Lunch box on train, (2. .50).. .70 

Total $13.60 

Each 6.80 




INNSBRUCK— We Ate in the Garden. 



INNSBRUCK (Eens-brook) 

The rail ride from Trient to Innsbruck is almost too beau- 
tiful to be taken in one dose. We used a local train, (7 
hours), instead of an express, so as not to be whisked 
through too fast. Had time permitted we would have lik- 
ed to have stopped at Bozen. Brennerbad or any of the in- 
teresting little towns of the Tyrolean Alps. It was all very 

54. 




INNSBRUCK— Hitched on one Side of the Tongue. 

beautiful and fascinating, but there are something like a 
million beautiful places to see in this world, to say nothing 
of the next^ and one of the hardshi]:)s for the tourist is to 
make a selection. 

'Innsbruck was certainly worth while. Tlie town is fram- 
ed up for the summer tourist and resident and pensions may 
be used for anything like an extended stay. Our list: 

Carl Kayser's Pension Hotel, (seme distance out, but fine), 
7 K up. 

Pension Thompson, 27 Falkstr, 7 K up. 
Pension Winter, about same rates. 
Pension Kleck, villa with garden, 6 K up. 
Hotel Valdidena, Room, 2 K up. ($1.85 coupons). 
Hotel Kreid, room 4 K up, ($2.60 coupons). 

We went to the Valdidena, on coupons and were pleas- 
antly but not very centrally located. All our meals were 
served at tables set in a grove of chestnut trees at the rear, 
and electric cars passed the doors for everywhere. Tram 
cars and inclines run to many interesting points in the en- 
virons and among the mountains at the usual fares. The 
cab tariff is 1 K, (20c), per half hour with a fixed tip of 10 



per cent of the fare to the driver. (There is no ordinance 
against tipping heavier, however^ and on, short drives we 
made it 20 per cent. The two day tourist need use few cabs 
however. The cars run to most points of interest and walk- 
ing is best of all. 

Hotel Valdidena, coupons $6.60 

Tips, waitress, maid, porter, each 1 K, boy, 50. . .70 

Lunch at Way Station, 1.20 

Cabs and cars, (7 K), admissions, (40 h), porter- 
age (1.60) 1.80 

Total, $10.30 

Each, 5.1.5 

We were so well j^leased with traveling on local trains 
through this scenic portion of our trip that we tried it again 
on the run to Munich. This time it did not work quite so 
well, as it left us stranded by a change of cars at the little 
junction town of Worgl for 3 hours, but there was time for 
a leisurely luncheon in the garden of the restaurant across 
from the station where a waiter who had once been employ- 
ed in Quebec spoke our language readily. 

I 




INNSBRUCK — A Street Scene. 



56 



MUNICH, (Munchen-Mewnken) Bavaria 

The station (bahnliof ) at Munich is a convenient one. The 
unit of German money is the mark, worth about 2-lc U. S. 
money :, (.238 to be exact). lOOpfennige make one mark^ 
and that's all the tourist has to know about German money. 
Divide by t, to get U. S. funds, roughly. 

The cabs in Munich are taxies, both horse and auto, and 
are very convenient and cheaji. beginning at iO pf., (10c) 





MUNICH— A Shoe Shop. 

for the first 800 meters and 10 pf., (about 2 l-2c) for each 
additional 400 metres. A little more at night. Our cab 
to our first address with baggage, cost 1.50, (36c), and the 
average drive was about 1 mark for two persons. Tram 
cars which are easy to use cost the usual 2 cents per zone, 
about. Our addresses: 

Pension Washeim, with lift, No. 6, Turkenstrasse, 4.50 M up. 

Pension Beckenbauer, 5 Prinz Ludwig str. .5 M up. 

Pension Qulsisana, 82 Tlieresien str., 5 M up. 

Pension Bucher 20 b, Maximilianstr, .5 M up. 

Pension Piel, 61 Georgen str. 4 1-2 M up. 

Pension Villa Gruber, 24 Hess str.. 4 M up. 

Christliches Hospiz, 4 Mathiklen str., Room, 1.30 to 3 M. 
Bkfst., 1 M. 



57 




WW^ ,*WgS>7 



MUNICH — Shops. 

Hotel de I'Europe, Bayer str near Central station, room, 3 
M up, $1.85 coupons. 

Bayrischer Hof, 19 Promenade Platz, 9 to 14 M. 

I number the Washiem among the best five pensions I 
know. We made an arrangement without any bantering for 
a fine corner room at 5 1-2 marks, ($1,37), each per day, all 
included. jNIunich is a city of fine accomodations. It is 
fine in every way. I wish that I could write all that I would 
like to about the city. I would, too, if so many others had 
not done it so mucli better. An enthusiastic young Ameri- 
can whom M'e met stated that "Municli has all the other 
German cities backed into a corner and dented into the plas- 
ter." I'm not sure that I would express mj^self in just that 
way, but it would be eft\isively. 

ABOUT "ENGLISH SPOKEN HERE." Practically 
everywhere that one goes along the tourist routes of Europe, 
there is someone available who s])eaks English. Some of 
these people speak, write, read and understand the language 
as well as the average American. Many much better, but 
the average person who fulfils the promise of the sign, 

58 



speaks and understands just enough in his own. or her own. 
line to be useful, and a very present help, but onl}^ in what 
might be called, simple English. Conversation with these 
people, ordinarily, should be in the plainest, most direct 
language. 

The perplexed tourist who breathes a sigh of relief when 
he finally encounters the "one speaking English," rushes up 
to him and chatters : "Say ! It sure seems good to strike 
somebody who sabeys something besides this monkey talk. 
Can you give me a tip how to get to this Pinny-kothick. or 
whatever you call it.'^ 

This isn't so much overdrawn as you might think. 

When 3^ou need information from a foreigner who com- 
mands a smattering of our tongue, be as elemental as you 
can. Talk slowly, pronounce distinctly and use no colo- 
quialisms. And, it might be added, courtesy, even the ex- 
treme of it, is almost a language by itself. 

A side trip may be made, easily, from Mvmich, to Ober- 
Ammergau, the village famous for the Passion Play every ten 
years, 1910, 1920, and so on. It is only 61 miles away through 




MUNICH — R. R. station. Note the Porters. 
59 



an interesting country. There are frequent excursions by var- 
ious routes and the rail road, round trip fare is only two or 
three dollars. 

We made our longest stay, six days, at Munich : , 

Pension Washeim . $16.95 

Tips, (divided by the landlady) 1.50 

I.aundry, (3.64 M) cabs and cars, (14.20 M) 4.25 

Local guide books, beer and time tables 1.00 

Admissions, (3.20), porters, (60) 95 

"Seeing Munich," auto ride and tip 2.25 

Total $26.90 

Each 13.45 




•e'l « 




NlJiM':MiU;U<; — Mark.-l Sciuare. 

NUREMBERG 

Almost all of the way to this quaint old city we had a 2d 
class compartment entirely to ourselves. Our list of ad- 
dresses : 

Pension Schmidt, 11 Luitpold str., 5 Marks up. 
Pension Meyer, 4 Bayreuther str., 5 1-2 marks up. 
Hotel Christliches Hospiz, Tafelhof str., room, 1.25 marks 
to 2.50. 

Hotel Maximilian, room 2 M up, $1.85 coupons. 
Hotel Golden Eagle, room 2 1-2 M up, $2.60 coupons. 



60 



Heving engaged our cab, (fiaker), by the half hour at the 
rate, 60 pf. per quarter hour, we drove first to the Pension 
Schmidt. It looked comfortable and we wanted to stay, but 
eould'nt have just the room we wished so we drove to the Chris- 
tliches Hospiz, one of the chain hotels in Germany, with a 
few in other countries, owned by and run for the German 
Y. ]\I. C. A. This is the only one we visited, biit if they are 
all like this, they are fine stopping places for the tourist. 
Our room cost us only 1 l-'-2 marks. (36'c) each and the res- 
taurant was run at moderate prices a la carte. The whole 
place was exceptionally modern and high class. Xo tips 
were permitted, but a trifle less than 10 per cent "trinkgeld", 
was added to the bill. 

(A complete list of these hospizes may be obtained free 
by addressing the Verband Christlicher Hospiz, 69 Oranien- 
str., Berlin, Germany.) 

A modern street car service is available in Nuremberg and 
a "rubber neck" four in hand makes four round trips of the 
sights per day. 

Three days, (much rain) : 

Hospiz, (29. .50) "Trinkgeld," (2.50) $7.7.5 

Drive, (9.25), Cabs and cars, (3 M) 3.10 

Train porters. (1 M), admissions, (3.60) 1.15 

Lunches, beer, etc., (6.05) 1.50 

Total $13.50 

Each 6.75 

HEIDELBERG 

I'd like to tell about the famous Castle, (schloss), the 
equally famous University and all the beauty of the place, 
— only I didn't see any of it. It rained every instant in the 
most heart-broken, hopeless way. 

Our list : 

61 



Pension Pilmsoll, 3 Reidstrasse, 4.50 M up. 
Pension Silverne, 51 Anlage, 4 M \ip. 
Pension International and Anglaise, 8 Anlage, 5 M. 
Hotel Lang, room, 2 M., up, Board, 5 M up. 
Hotel Metropole, (Special) 8 1-2 M. 
Hotel Prinz Karl, Korn Markt, 8 M up. 
Hollander Hot, 22 Neckerstaden, room, 1.25 M up. 

We chose the Hotel Metropole as our sta_v was to.be shorty 
and we can thoroughly recommend the house. The day be- 
fore we reached Heidelberg and the day after we left, the 
weather was perfect as I hope it will be when you go. We 
should Iiave stayed another day, but let that pass. The 
"good" traveler dosen't whine. 

Hotel MetroDole and omnibus $4.55 

Hotel tips, 3 M; cab, 2 M: porters, 50 $1.35 

Total $5.90 

Each 2.95 



FRANKFORT, (Frankfurt-am-iMain) 

I don't know why we didn't expect much of Frankfort, 
but we didn't and were agreeably disappointed. It is very 
interesting, and, to quote myself, "Worth a much longer 
stay." I think that, hereafter, when I am tempted to make 
this remark, I will give merely initials, thus: "W. m. 1. s.," 
to save space. 3Irs. Rolling-stone and I said, "Very pretty," 
so many times that we made code for it: "V. p.," and for 
"Very pretty indeed," it was "V. p. i.," and from many rep- 
etitions it came about, tinally, that when we ejaculated 
"Weepy eye!" it meant, "Very pretty indeed!" and 
"Weepy ivy!" meant "Very pretty indeed, — very!!!" 

We had a lot of fun driving about in a cab to find a pen- 
sion which was not full, or which could take vis for less than 
a week. Our list : 

62 




FRANKFORT — A Quaint Square. 



Pension Metropole, Bachenheimerlandstrasse and Wiesenau, 
6 M up. 

Pension Anglo German, 70 Wolfgang str., 5 M up. 
Pension Oranien, 71 Beethoven str, 7 M up. 
Pension Villa Westend, 53 Wiesenau, 5 M up. 
Christlicher Hospiz, 25 Wiesenhutten platz, room 2 M up. 
Hotel Schwan, 12 Steinwey, $2.60 coupons. 
Hotel Prince Henry, $1.85 coupons. 

The pensions all seemed good, I liked the Oranien best, 
but we could not find just the room we wanted, so we took 
our $2, (dinner, room and tkfst), coupons and went to the 
Hotel Schwan where the Peace of 1871 was concluded. The 
sense of peace seems to have remained. It is a well manag- 
ed, comfortable hotel with an air of high bred, decorous 

63 



living. We stayed but one night. Cab fares, both taxi and 
ordinary are about the same as ^lunich. Cars exactly the 
same. We walked a good deal the first day and took a two 
hour cab drive by a round-about route to the station the next 
morning. The cost: 

Hotel, coupons, $4 tips, 2.50 M .$4.62 

Cabs, 8.50 M; lunches, 3 M ; admissions, 3 M 3.62 

Porters, 60 12 

Total $8.36 

Each, 4.09 



FRANKFORT — A German American Shoe Store. 

WEISBADEN, (Vees-bah-den) 

We selected this as the typical great German watering- 
place, and it is well worth the visit, and the two days rest 

6i 



there. It is also a good place to take the boat on the Rhine. 

Our list: 

Pension Margaretha, 3 The Lemannstr., 6.50 M up. 
Pension Villa Violetta, 3 Gartenstr., 5 M up. 
Intra's Hotel Garnie, 51 Taunusstr., room and bkfst., 3 M up. 
English American Pension, 11 Leberberg, 5 M up. 
Pension Villa Olanda, 1 Grunweg, Gartenstr., . 5 M up. 
Christliches Plospiz, 4 Rosenstr., room. 2 M up. (Two oth- 
ers, 5 Bmserstr., room 1 M up, and 53 Oranienstr, room 1.25 up. 
Hotel Westminster, 8 Mainzerstr, room 2 M up. 

We chose the Margaretha. getting an extra good room 
and full 1 oard at 28 mai-ks for our stay of two days less 
one "mitt g essen." 

Breakf st, as practically everywhere on the Continent was 
rolls with either coffee, tea or chocolate, with occasionally 
jam, marmalade or honey, and it is strange how it seems to 
satisfy, when taken in connection with the many coursed 
luncheons and evening dinners. Now, at home, all I want 
for breakfast, is just a little fruit, a bit of cereal of some 
sort, coffee, buttered toast, or rolls, ham or bacon and eggs, 
fried potatoes and possibl}^ a few griddle cakes with maple 
syrup, and I don't care if I don't have another thing more 
to eat before luncheon time, and yet, the Continental ar- 
rangement seems to answer me all right. 

Cabs and cars cost about the same as Munich. Our ex- 
pense : 

Pension, 28.60 M ; tips, 3 M $7.90 

Cabs and cars, 7.10 M; porters and checking, 90 M 2.00 

Guide book, 1 M; lunch on stmr., 3 M 1.00 

Admissions, 8.40 M 2.10 

Total $13.00 ■ 

Each, 6.50 

THE RHINE TRIP 

We took a cab for the drive to Biebrich which is the Rhine 
I^ort of Weisbaden, and it cost 1.20 marks. It was a pretty 

65 



drive, but the electric c;ir, which carries baggage as well as 
passengers, follows the same road and co'ts mnch less, land- 
ing passengers at the pier. 

We did not take the fastest express ste iier, nor the slow- 
est local steamer, but one of intermediate speed which oc- 
cupied most of the day for the trip. A goo.' lunch was serv- 
ed to us at tables on deck. With a little more time we would 
have stopped for a nigh.t at several of the interesting vil- 
lages along the ri^er, as many of our fe]l3w passengers did, 
anyway at Coblenz for a trip up the Mcrjelle, but we push- 
ed through to 





«s^ 



COLOGNE — A School Girl. 

66 




COLOGNE — The Cathedral Tuwors. Camera i'ointing- Straight Up 

COLOGNE, (Koln) 

Conducted parties frequently devote half a day to this 
city of the wonderful cathedral. We doubled that time and 
it is W. m. 1. s. Our list: 

Pension International, 20 Hermannstr., 5 M up. 

Pension Bauer, 41 Wagnerstr., 5 M up. 

Pension Oldfeld, 3 Blumenstr., 5 M up. 

Christliches Hospiz, 39 Johannisstr., and 17 Hermanstr, 
room, 1 M up. (Another smaller Hospiz, 77 Johannisstr., (fair 
only), room 1 M up. 

Harms Hotel Terminus, 9 Hermannstr., room and bkfst., 
3.25 M up. 

Minerva. 24 Johannis str., r and b, 3.50 M up. 

We chose Harms' hotel, (not far from the landing, and 

67 



only a block from the Dom station, through the passages to 
the rear). We took only room and breakfast here^ lunch- 
ing and dining where we happened to be^ sometimes using 
odd coupons de Cook at the Hotel Minerva and Hotel Con- 
tinental. 

Cabs, taxis and cars about the same as ]Munich. The ex- 
pense. Two days : 

Hotel, 19.50; tips, (15 per cent.); 3 M $5.62 

Admissions and guides, 5 M; lunches and tips, 

10.20 M 3.80 

Cab drive, 4.50; porters, 1.40 1.47 

Total $10.89 

Each 5.44 

The hotel porter carried our bag to the train, and we left 
German}' regretfully. 




THE RHINE — An Express Steamer. 



BRUSSELS, (Bruxelles,) Belgium 

Belgian money is exactly the same as French. 100 cen- 
times make one franc, which is $0,193 in U. S. money. 
Practically 20 cents so, dividing by 5, as in Italy, gives the 

68 




THE RHINE — Landing at "Fair Bingen." 

result roughly in dollars and cents. Thus, 50 f, 40 ctms, 
$10.08. Our list: 

Hotel Pension de Pamille, 19 Rue de Banque, 6 fr. up. 

Pension Anglaise, 4.5 Rue de la Longue Haie, Ave. Louise, 6 
fr. up. 
. Mmes Gratrix and Quintallet, 65 Rue Prince Royal, 5 fr. up. 

Pension Neef, 61 Rue Veydt, ave. Louise, 6 fr. up. 

Pension Russell, 41 Rue de Facqz, ave. Louise, 5 fr. up. 





THE RHINE — Castles and Terraced Slopes. 



69 



Hotel de Bordeaux., 135 Rue de.Midi. 9 fr, up, $1.85 coupons. 
Hotel de la Poste, Rue Fosse-aux-Loups, 13 fr. up. 

We took a two horse cab to the first on the list and let it 
go at that. The rate was 6 fr, ($1.20), eacli, with a little ex- 
tra for light and attendance, 2.50, (50c), all told. It is a 
simple place compared to some of the fine pensions in Brus- 
sels, but, my ! ! How that landlady can cook. 




THE i:KJi\E — Statue of Kuiiienir ^^'illiam at Coblenz. 

Regardless of tariff, you might as well figure on 1 fr. for 
a cab drive with a 20 centime tip. Electric cars and steam 
trams have splendid services at very low rates. If you go 
to the Battle Field of Waterloo, as we did not, Baedeker 
tells you how to do it in two or three ways. Cook & Son run 
a fine coaching trip at inclusive cost, but the steam cars, the 
stages from the station and considerable walking will give 
a good general idea for the average tourist. 

We'd like to write a lot about Brussels, it is so beautiful. 
and has so much worth seein.g. but all that we can permit 
ourselves is : 



'0 



The expense, 2 days : 

Pension, 26.50; tips, (extra), 2 f $5.70 

Lunches, 5.35; cabs, 16.; admissions, 1.30 4.53 

Total $10.23 

Each, 5.11 

Of course you'll buy a little lace. If you aren't a very 
good judge and want honest treatment, Mme. Olyff, 9 Rne 
de la Madeleine speaks good English and gives good values. 




ANTWERP— The Guild Halls. 



ANTWERP, (Antwerpen Anvers) 

The jump to Antwerp is a very short one. Somebody 
told us pensions were few and not very good here, but we did 
not find it so. Our list: 

Pension Kern-Loos, 35 Longue rue D'Herenthals, 6 fr. up. 

Pension Kulilmann, 17 Rue Van Dyck, 6 fr. up. 

Hotel de la Fleur d'Or, Rue des Moines, 5 fr. up. 

Pension Fernau, 13 Rue des Capucines, 6 fr. up. 

Hotel de I'Europe, 10 fr. up. 

Hotel des Mille Collonnes, 9 fr. up. $1.85 coupons. 

Hotel Queens, 10 fr. up. 

71 




ANTWERP — Courtyard of the Plantin Museum. 

The Kern-Loos proved, certainly, a daintj^ place to stop. 
Consi^iciously clean, with as tine a cuisine, as any pension 
we've seen — and tliis is gratutions. We took the middle rate 
of 7 francs, ($1.40), a day each, without luncheon. (Free 
beer at dinner. The water isn't extremely safe). Cabs and 
cars are about the same as Brussels. Oh, but there's such 
a lot to enjoy at Antwerp. Our regulation day in — day 
there — day out, had to suffice, but it was W. m. 1. s. The 
expense : 

Pension, 28; 10 per cent., tips entrusted to land- 
lady, 3 $6.20 

Cabs and porters, 12.70; admissions and tips, 6.90 3.92 
Lunches 7.60 1.52 

Total $11.64 

Each, 5.82 

72 



ROTTERDAM, (Holland) 

Holland has the reputation of being expensive, but I don't 
believe the Dutch find it so. The trouble is with the high 
unit^ and the tiny coins wliich make the fractional parts of 
the unit seem smaller than their value. 100 cents make 1 
gulden, worth $.402 U. S. money. Thus, 2 1-2 gulden make 
$1, and 5 Dutch cents equal 2 U. S. cents. Not very easy 
figuring, but if you just come from German or French points 
you will find yourself inclined to overspend because of the 
high value of the gulden unit. Our list: 

Pension Andrew, 25 Westzee-dyk, 3 gulden up. 
Hotel de France, 201 Hoogstraat, ($1.85 coupons). 
Hotel Weimar, Spaansche Kade, 6 1-2 G up. 
Hotel Smits, 3 Guide Hoofd plein, room and bkfst. 75, pen- 
sion, $160 up. 

Maas Hotel, 19 Boompjes, 8 G up. 

We used our $2 (sans lunch) coupons at the Hotel Wei- 
mar^ for our short stay and found the hotel good, quiet and 
convenient. We got our first taste here of the wonderful 
milk of Holland. 




ANTWERP — An Artistic Square. 

73 




P.Ul SSKJ.S — 'I'll.' Manikin l-^)untain. 

It's a job to find a cab in Rotterdam and tlie rates are 
quite so when you find one, but what's the use? Walking is 
more fun and tlie eh^ctric cars oi^'er a fine service. There 
are numerous boating excursions wliich may be made from 
here. There really aren't so many stock sights in Rotter- 
dam^ but, as our first HoHand city it was novel and worth 
the 24 hours we devoted to it. Then we proceeded to 

THE HAGUE, (Den Haag) 

Mostly taximeter, horse drawn cabs, at about the regula- 
tion rate. Our list: 



74 




-Aclvertisins; 



Pension Boelen, 86 Jarvastrat, 3 1-2 to 5 G. 
Pension International, 2 Sophealaan. 
Hotel Tourist, Stationsweg, room and bkfst, 
Hotel Lion d'Or, 5 G up. 

Hotel dii Passage, $1.85 coupcns. 
Hotel Paulez, $2.60 coupons. 
Hotel Bellevue, $3 coupons 
Hotel des Indes, $4 coupons. 



2 G. 




THE HAGUE — The House in the Woi 



75 



We went to the Hotel du Passage^ which is a hotel with an 
entrance from the shopping Arcade of the city- It was 
satisfactory. The Hague is an interesting place with won- 
derful galleries and much of interest. The drive to 




VOLENDAM — Some Holland Men. 



SCHEVENINGEN 

the fashionable Dutch watering place, is alluring, first vis- 
iting, "The House in the Woods." The steam tram or the 
electric cars offer the cheapest way to go and have the ad- 
vantage that you can spend several hours at the seaside 
without fear of the taximetre keeping at work like a busy 
bee. It is also a pleasant walk in nice weather. Walking 
one way and riding the other is a common 23i'actice. Howev- 
er, we took a cab for the two drives and around the cit}^, and 
it cost us 3.60 gulden, ($1.4i), including the cabman's tip^ 
which was not a breaking matter. 

Orchestra seats at a good theatre cost 1 G each. The 

76 



little tea rooms where the delicious milk aforementioned, 
afternoon tea and lunches may be had at mild prices are 
features of this and other cities of Holland. The cost: 

Hotel Weimar, Rotterdam, $4 omnibus, 1 G, tips 1.50 $5.00 

Hotel du Passage, Hague, $6.60; tips, (lumped, 2.75 G) . . 7.70 
Cabs and porters, 5.85 G; lunch, etc., 1.10; admissions 4.65 4.64 
R. R. Fare to Amsterdam, 2d class, 4.70 1.88 

Total $19.22 

Each 9.61 

AMSTERDAM 

Our original itinerary and circular ticket did not contem- 
plate more of Holland, but we had gained a few days so we 
decided to go to Amsterdam and bought a one way ticket, 
2d class, rail. Arriving we went to a nice hotel, first, as we 
were a little uncertain, and looked up a pension the next 
day, but we needn't to have gone to the extra expense. 

Our list : 

Pension Oud Lejerhoven, Tesselchade and Vondel strasse, 
3.75 G up. 

Hotel Pension Lutkie, 88 Leidschekade, 3 G up. 

Pension Das, 95. 

Miss Denj^s, 16 Oosteinde, 3.50 G. up. 

Hotel Suisse, 5 G up. 

Hotel Neuf, 5 G up. 

Hotel Pays Bas, $2.60 coupons. 

Brock's Doelen Hotel, $3 coupons. 

Amstel Hotel, $4 coupons. 

We went to the Hotel Pays Bas on coupons and were 
pleased, but the next day we hunted up the Pension Oud Le- 
jerhoven and found a very homelike, comfortable place. We 
remained four days in all, and it is w. m. 1. s. 

A ten hour trip to the Isle of Marken and back by the way 
of Volendam and various canal towns, cost, including lunch, 
8. 40 G, ($3.36) for both of us. It is hard to escape infor- 
mation about this trip, but it is easiest obtained at the office 

77 



of Thos. Cook & Sou. There are, also several other inter- 
esting side trips, including one to Zaandani, and information 
is easily obtainahle. It is remarkable liow many of the 
Dutch people one comes in contact with, wlio can handle a 
little English. 

Leaving the pension, we put a little over 10 per cent, of 
our bill, (2.50 G), in the poiter's box to be divided at the 
end of the month, among the servants. An excellent meth- 
od. The cost : 

Hotel, coupons, 1 day $ 5.20 

Tips, maid, 25: porter: 50: waiter, 75: baggage, 10: bell 

boy 10 68 

Pension. 22.55 : tips. 2.50 10 02 

Trip to Marken and lunch 3.36 

Laundry forwarded from the Hague, 3. 84 G 1.53 

Cabs, 13.60: porters, 40: a-lmlsslons and tips and lunches, 

1.28 G 6.11 

Total $26.90 

Each, $13.45 

Eager for a little more experience with the canals, we 
finally got track of the freight and passenger steamers 
which are run from Amsterdam to Leiden every day by the 
Carsjens Steamboat Co., (office, 80 Leidschestraat). The 
little boat sailed at nine o'clock in the morning and was de- 
signed for the ordinary local package freight and passen- 
ger traffic down one of the most interesting canals in Hol- 
land. It stopped at 10 or IT) tiny, away from the railroad 
towns. The trip was enjoyable and interesting. A novel 
experience and wonderfully cheap. We obtained a passable 
luncli on board. 

LEIDEN, (Li-den) 

x\rriving well along in tlie afternoon we sent for a cab 
and took a drive about tlie town of an hour or so. ending at 

78 



the station^ where we caught a local train for The Hague. 
We drove up-town, dined comfortably at the Hotel du Pas- 
sage, (coupons), and, resuming our circular ticket, went on 
by the special boat train for the Hook of Holland. 

The train ran out on the pier, close by the steamer and in 
ten minutes we were in our berths. Our tickets included an 
ordinary saloon stateroom which was good enough. More 
luxurious ones may be had by extra payment, but it is hard- 
ly worth while for the seasoned traveler. I had taken the 
precaution to ask one of the agents of the route at Am- 
sterdam to wire ahead for our reservations, (no charge), 
and thej^ were waiting. 

Early in the morning we were in Harwich and a special 
boat train rushed us up, without a stop to 

LONDON 

As this was a revisited city, we did not intend to stay long- 
er than was necessar}^ to complete our ticketing home, and 
do a little shopping. 

Our address list: 

The Manhattan, 53 Upper Bedford place, W. C, r., bkfst and 
evng. dinner, 5 s up. 

Miss Ellicott, 56 Torrington sq., W. C, 5 s up. 

Miss Rutter, 23 Upper Bedford place, 4 s up. 

Taverner's Hotel, Hunter st., Brunswick sq., R. & B., 3 s., 
6 d., up. 

Tranter's Hotel, 6 Bridgewater sq.. Barbican, R. & B., 4 s 
up. 

St. Ermin's Hotel, board from 12 s. 

Hotel Brooklyn, Earls Court sq., S. W., $1.85 coupons. 

The ^Manhattan looked good to us, being run. as it is, by 
an American lady, so we drove there and paid 7 shillings, 
($1.75) each for an especially convenient room with break- 
fast and evening dinner. It is a comfortable, home-like 

79 



place, admirably managed by jNIrs. C. J. Leask. I would 
give a smii of money which would embarrass my bank ac- 
count considerably, if all of the maids who have done for us 
in our home for the past ten years could, one by one, sud- 
denly find themselves working under thi.s capable directress. 




LONDON — Tomb of Oliver Goldsmith. 

And, Oh, I would pay extra, to have a carefully concealed 
reserved seat as each one received a few instructions, say 
about the third day of service. It would be Glorious I 
Glorious ! 

ENGLISH MONEY: is perhaps the most confusing of 
any encountered along this route, because, with the famous 
English conservatism, a decimal system has not yet been 
adopted. 

A half penny equals a cent U. S. Money, a penny, 2 cents; 
12 pennies make a shilling, (24 cents about) ; 20' s. make a 
pound, (about $4.86). For quick estimating divide amounts 



80 








X/i 'SD'^^'/^J^^. 






- ■&J&>»v» 



LINCOLN — The Cathedral Towers. 

in shillings by 4, and multiply pounds by 5, to get tbe value 
in dollars. 

Bus fares are. as always, one penny up, according to dis- 
tance. Cab fares, 1 shilling per course, (25c); and iip- 
wards; for 2 persons. Taxicabs begin at 8 d, (l6c)j for 1 
mile, 2 persons, or by time, ten minutes, and 2 d (4c) , for 
each additional quarter mile or 2 1-2 mins. The few horse 
cabs with taxis, 6d for 1 mile or 12 mins., and 3d for each 
additional half mile or six mins. 

The JNIetropolitan R. R.. the underground, (called the 

81 



tube), and electric car lines in connection with above make 

it very easy and cheap to get about. (See, also, "Europe on 

$4 a day."). 

LEIDEN to LONDON, 4 days: 

Steamboat to Leiden, 1.40 G: Lunch, 2 G $1.36 

Drive, Leiden, 2 G; R. R. to the Hag\;e, 1.40 G. . 1.36 

Tips, various, 1 G; cabs, 1.50 1.00 

3 days, Manhattan, London 11.25 

Tips, porter, 2 s; C. maid, 2 s 1.00 

Laundry, 2 s; discount, refunded coupons, 3 s.. 1.25 

Steamer trunlv, Naples to London 3.42 

Admissions, 4-1; porters and various tips, 2-4.. 1.60 
Cabs, taxies and cars, 12-11; lunches 7-4 5.02 

Total $27.26 

Each $13.63 

Each per day, 3.40 




CAMBPtlDGE. — A Itoadside Inn. (Snapshot of Mrs. R.) 

CAMBRIDGE 

Our railroad tickets wliich were given us, gratis, by our 
steamer company, permitted any route to Liverpool and 

82 



stop over at will. As we went via Stratford and Chester, 
on the first experimental trip, this time, we chose to go via 
Cambridge^ Ely and Lincoln. Leaving London on Sunday 
morning, and by the way, a taxicab which took ns, with our 
trunk and grips from the Manhattan, (near the British Mus- 
eum), to Liverpool street station about two miles — cost ex- 
actly 62 cents. (Chicago and N. Y. please copy). 

It was rather of a local train which took us to Cambridge 
— in fact it was the only train over the road on Sunday. 




C. P. R. STEAMER. "Little Boy Blue," the Call to Meals. 



83 



Fancy that, out of the greatest city in the world. This is 
not the scenic part of England, bnt interesting, neverthe- 
less. 

Our list at Cambridge: 

Mrs. Johnson. Kenmare House, 74 Trumpington st., 6 s. 
Miss Cook, 19 Malcolm st., 5 s. 
The Blue Boar, Trinity st., 9 s up. 
The University Arms, 12 s up. 

The Blue Boar sounded interesting and was not disap- 
pointing, for our one night in the University Town. We 
walked about among the famous old colleges hired a horse 
and trap for a drive in the surrounding country, over the 
jDcrfect roads, (paying too much for the rig, of course, but 
then, it is a college town and we were Americans), but we 
neglected to do the typical thing, hire a boat for a row on 
the river Cam. I'm going back there some time just for 
the sake of doing it. 

ELY 

The next morning we went on to Ely for a few minutes 
glimpse of the famous cathedral. We stopped only between 
trains. We had sent all of our baggage except a Nurem- 
berg ruck sack containing a few necessities, through to the 
boat at Liverpool and we could travel fast. There is no 
need of a cab. One can walk easily from the station to the 
cathedral, and all over the quaint village for that matter. 
There are several good inns — The Bell, Angel and Mr. 
Turner's City Hotel, but we lunched hastily at the station 
and got to 

LINCOLN 

in time to see the magnificent cathedral during the after- 
noon. Our list : 

84 



Mrs. Vernon, near cathedral, 6-6 per daj^ 

The Saracen's Head, business section, room 3 s up. 

The White Hart, near catherderal, room 3 s up. 

As it was only for dinner^ bed and breakfast^ we went to 
the White Hart, a typical English country town inn. It 
was all right. An English commercial man said this: "If 
you're going to an English hotel, you mght as well go to a 
good one as a poor one. They'll both manage to get about 
the same amount of money out of you, and there's the pos- 
sibility' of the better one being more comfortable." 

Lincoln is an interesting town. Don't think that I am 
meanins; to nesdect an account of the siffhts, but if I tell 
you how to get to where they are, reasonably and comfort- 
ably, the guide books will do the rest a great deal better 
than I could. 

After some more sight seeing in the morning we took the 
long jump to 

LIVERPOOL 

our sailing town. We had some nice addresses, including: 

Miss Chuck, 64 Canning st., 6 s up. 

Mrs. lies Temperance Hotel, 32 Norton st.. London road, 6 
s up. 

Mrs. Scott-Simpson, Atholstone House, 12 Gambler terrace, 
Hope St., 6-6 a day. 

Laurences, Temperance Hotel. 
The Bee Hotel. 

The Adelphi Hotel. 

We went to the Bee Hotel because they accept Continental 
.$1.8.) coupons and we had some odds and ends of days to 
use up. It is a curious inn whicli does a tremendous com- 
mercial business. 

I never could find much interesting about Liverpool. The 

85 



awful^ slatternly soddenness of the English poor is especial- 
ly startling here. The next day we sailed. 

Liverpool taxicabs have a minimum of sixi^ence^ (12c)j 
and work up, a j^enny at a tnne. Thus our cab to the boat 
with tip, cost 1-6, (37c). Cars same as London. 

LONDON To LIVERPOOL, 3 days: 

Cambridge, livery, 7-6 $1.87 

Blue Boar Hotel, 18 s; tips, 2 S 5.00 

Lincoln, White Hart, 17 S; tips, 1 S 4.50 

Liverpool, Bee Hotel, coupons, 2.80 

Cabs, 5-6; admisions, 2-4; lunches, 3-6 2.75 

Total $16.92 

Each 8.46 

Each per day 2.82 

TO MONTREAL 

We sailed July 7th, for Montreal. As soon as we had our 
going passage cinched, away back in February, we began 
negotiating for a "cabin class" return passage. We ob- 
tained propositions from several lines. The Bremen-Bal- 
timore service of the N. G. Lloyd appealed j^retty strongly 
to us, but we wished to have a little England in the tour and 
finally decided on the Liverpool-Montreal "cabin class" 
service of the Canadian Pacific R. R. Co's steamers, (Main 
Office No. 3 St. Sacrament St., Montreal). 

Long before leaving home we had our berths engaged 
from Liverpool to Montreal at $45 each, in a two berth cab- 
in on the S. S. Lake Erie. A little better state room costs 
$47.50, each. Only one class of cabin passengers was car- 
ried and the steamer was steady and comfortable. We were 
amazed at the excellence of the table, the state rooms and 
the service, taking the price into consideration. 

The course was from Liverpool, touching at Belfast, 
then rounding the Northern coast of Ireland and straight- 

86 



away to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The several days pass- 
ed on the beautiful river and the glimpses of Quebec and 
various river towns, made a pleasant ending to the voyage. 

Probably never again, in this world, shall we see so won- 
derful a combination of sunset and rainbow as was spread 
in the heavens one evening just after we had passed the 
mouth of the Saguenay river. A storm had just ceased. 
On one side of the river the sun was sinking through a mar- 
velously illuminated cloud formation, while on the other 
side a great double rainbow with the ends resting in the 
river, framed a blue tinted scene of coast, sky and quaint 
Canadian village in white relief, like a great proscenium 
arch of gold. It was a picture of transcendent beauty 
such as none of the ship's company had ever seen before. 
Even the bluff, imemotional captain could not but join with 
those of us who hurried from side to side of the boat that not 
a phase of the magnificent transformation scene might be 
missed. 

But this description is cold and colorless and doesn't be- 
long in this book anyway. 

A novelty of this line is that the deck chairs are furnished 
free. Tips were a "little different," as they always are, 
but the economical tourist may remember, always, that less 
is expected on a "Cabin class" steamer than on an "Ocean 
greyhound," I have an idea that our tips averaged well with 
any that were given. They were, stewardess, $1.50; cab- 
in boy, $1; waiter, $3; deck steward, $1; Little Boy Blue, 
(the bugle boy,) librarian, etc.. 60c — $7.10. 

MONTREAL 

The landing was made Sunday evening, July 18th, after 
a fine all daj' ride down the river. The Canadian Cus- 

87 



toms were nothing to us and the U. S. examination which 
could be made at the R. R. station or at the border caused no 
annoyance. 

Returning tourists may bring $100 worth each into the 
United States, and there is now little question as to what is 
brought, the only question being as to value. 

Our Montreal list : 

St. .James, room, $1 up. 

Queens, room $1 up. 

The Place Viger Hotel, (excellent but expensive). 

Cab tariff', '25c for each 15 minutes. We Avent to the 
Queen's Hotel, others of our acquaintances to the two oth- 
ers mentioned, and we all had nothing but praise for them. 
The next day we counted our trip ended and started home. 

On board, tips, $7.10; wireless message, $1; con- 
cert etc., $2.05 $10.15 

Montreal, Queen's Hotel, $3.50' and tips, 50c, cab, 
55c 4.55 

Total $14.70 

FINAL SUMMARY 

Paid in advance $297.58 

New York 6.50 

On board 11.50 

Genoa and Naples 11.80 

The Amalfl Drive 16.45 

Rome 9.87 

Orvieto 6.32 

Siena 8.46 

Pisa and Florence 10.58 

Bologna 10.34 

Verona 12.02 

Riva and Trient 13.60 

Innsbruck 10.30 

Munich 26.90 

Nuremberg 13.50 

Heidelberg, $5.90, Frankfort, $8.36 14.26 

Wiesbaden 13.00 

88 i 



Cologne 10.89 

Brussels 10.23 

Antwerp 11.64 

Rotterdam and the Hague 19.22 

Amsterdam 26.90 

Leiden and London 27.26 

Cambridge, Ely-Lincoln 16.92 

Steamer and Montreal 14.70 

Grand total $630.74 

Each, $315.37 

Each per day, 80 days, $3.94 

We have tried to make this all very plain and practical, 
so that you can take the book in hand, follow it's advice 
straight through and be relieved of all details of investiga- 
tion and take the same trip for the same money — or less. It 
can be done for less, easily. In this book we have allowed 
also for the traveler who is able, willing, and rather anxious, 
maybe, to spend more. You can follow this same itinerary 
and the information and do it, easily. A little more ex- 
pensive ocean transportation, the more expensive hotels 
and pensions that we list for you, etc., and you are accomo- 
dated. All out of the same book. 

For the convenience of the reader I include a list of the 
principal other North Atlantic S. S. lines, with their min- 
imum 2nd cabin rates, for what is called the "JV inter Sea- 
son." This varies with different lines, but is usually before 
May 1st and after July 25th to Europe; and before August 
1st and after October 15th, from Europe. 

North German Lloyd, (Oelrichs & Co., 5 Broadway, N. Y.). 
between N. Y. and Bremen, Plymouth, Cherbourg, $42. .50 up, 
West Bound $47.50 up. In winter and early spring months 
several steamers carry second cabin only, to and from Bre- 
men, N. Y., only. 

N. G. L. Galveston-Bremen service, (Alfred Holt, Gen'l Agt., 
Galveston, Tex.) To and from Bremen, $60 to $75, according 
to season, "cabin class" steamers. 

N. G. L. Baltimore-Bremen service. (A. Schumacher & Co., 

89 



Gen'l Agts., 7 S. Gay St., Baltimore, Md.) Eastboimd, $45 and 
upward, and westbound, $52.50 and upward, according to sea- 
son. "Cabin class' steamers. 



Hamburg-American Line, (37 Broadway, N. Y.) to Hamburg, 
$47.50 up. To N. Y. $52.50 up. To or from London, $50 up. 
To or from Paris, $56.75 up. 

Cunard Line, (Vernon H. Brown, Gen'l Agt., 21 State St., N. 
Y.) or Boston, and Liverpool, $42.50 up. 



American Line, (9 Broadway, N. Y.) N. Y. — Plymouth and 
Southampton, $47.50; Cherbourg, $50 up, all year. 

Philadelphia-Liverpool service, (1319 Walnut St., Phila.), 
$42.50 and upward, according to season. "Cabin class." 

Red Star Line, (9 Broadway, N. Y.) To Antwerp, $45 up; to 
N. Y., $52.50 up. 

Philadelphia service (1319 Walnut St., Phila., Pa.) To Lon- 
don, $49 up; to Antwerp. $45 and up, according to season. 
"Cabin class" steamers. 

Boston service, (84 State St., Boston). Antwerp to Boston, 
$52.50 upward, according to season. "Cabin class" steamers. 



Atlantic Transport Line, (9 Broadway, N. Y.), 1st Class only 
N. Y. to London, $55 up. Summer, $70 up, according to steam- 
er. 



White Star Line, (9 Broadway, N. Y.) N. Y.-Liverpool, 1st 
class, winter, $65 up; 2d class, $47.50 up. Boston-Liverpool, 
2d class $45 up. 



Leyland Line, (84 State St., Boston). First class only. Bos- 
ton-Liverpool, $55. Summer, $70 and up. 

Leyland Line, New Orleans service, (219 St. Charles St., 
New Orleans, La.) First class only. To Liverpool and Lon- 
don, summer, $70 and upward; winter, all berths $80. 



Anchor Line, (17 Broadway, N. Y.) Glasgow, N. Y., $50 up, 
1st class; $35 up 2d class, according to steamer and accom- 
modation. 

90 



French Line, (32 Broadway, N. Y.) To Harve, $45 up, to 
N. Y., $52.50 up, second class. 



Holland-American Line, (39 Broadway, N. Y.) To Rotter- 
dam, $45 up. From Rotterdam, $50 up. 

Allan Line, (110 State St., Boston), Boston-Glasgow. "Cabin 
class" steamers. Boston to Glasgow, $35 up. Glasgow to Bos- 
to, $40 up. 

Russian Volunteer Fleet, (C. B. Richard & Co., Gen'l Agts., 
31 Broadway, N. Y.) First cabin only. N. Y. to Rotterdam 
$65. All lower berths. 



Empress Line, (A. S. Annable, Gen'l Agt., Montreal). Cab- 
in class steamers, Montreal-Liverpool, summer; St. Johns, 
N. B., Liverpool, winter, $42.50 up. For 3 class steamers, 1st 
class, $75 up; 2d class, $40 up. 

White Star, Dominion Line, (17 St. Sacrament St., Montre- 
al). Summer, Montreal-Liverpool. Winter, Liverpool and Port- 
land, Me. "Cabin class" steamers, $42.50 up. Three class 
steamers, 1st class, $55 up; 2d class, $40 up. 

Donaldson Line, "Cabin Class" Montreal-Glasgow, $45 up. 

If we haven't made it clear enough we shall be glad to 
answer any questions, if we can and you enclose a stamped 
envelope. 

Cordially, 

THE ROLLING STONE CLUB, 

30 BELL BLDG., MEDINA, N. Y. 



91 




^>^' M 



